How To Make Incense

Although I’ve often read that making incense “from scratch” is extremely difficult, in reality it’s simple. Just like baking or painting, the fundamentals of incense making are quite simple, yet you can spend a lifetime mastering the finer aspects. The basic formula for natural incense is very simple:

Base + Binder + Aromatic + Water = Incense Dough

Once you have a properly mixed batch of incense dough, you can form it into any shape you wish. Sticks and cones are the most common forms, but you are truly limited only by your imagination.

Base

The base material in your incense replaces the charcoal or other outside heat source used in non-combusting forms of incense. Good base materials burn well and burn evenly. Bases can be tricky because some of them (sandalwood, for example) have very prominent scents of their own. You have two choices in that regard. You can either use a base with very little scent or you can choose one with a scent that compliments the rest of your blend.

Sandalwood, cedar, and pine are all excellent bases that can add a very strong scent to your incense blend. There are types of these woods you can find that are “oil extracted” or are of lower quality that have very little scent, but most often you will need to plan for the scent of the base along with your aromatic ingredients.

Red sandalwood (which is not actually sandalwood), alder, and charcoal are all very low-scent base materials. You might find them easier to work with as a new incense maker because they contribute so little to the overall scent.

Binder

The binder is a form of glue that holds the incense together in the shape you choose. There are two basic types of binders: gum binders and wood binders.

Wood binders are easy to work with and, in most cases, act as a base material in addition to be a binder. Common wood binders include joss powder (sometimes called jiggit) and “tabu no ki” (sometimes, incorrectly, called “makko”). They are forgiving binders and are a good choice for new incense makers. The big drawbacks are the amount of wood binder you need to use. Many recipes are 75% wood binder. Most wood binders aren’t as strong as gum binders, which is both a positive and a negative.

Gum binders (such as guar gum or xanthan gum) are much more powerful than wood binders. A typical incense recipe will use just 1/8 teaspoon of binder for every 2 Tablespoons of material. Because of their strength, adding too much gum binder to a recipe can cause it to bind so strongly it can’t burn. Gum binders add no scent of their own to the blend, so you don’t have to worry about their impact on the scent.

Aromatic

The final dry component is arguably the most critical. The aromatic ingredients are what you actually want to smell. The base and binder are there in order to heat the aromatics and release their scents.

All manner of herbs, resins, and woods have wonderful aromatic properties. Using an aromatic base that compliments the other aromatic components is a good way to start any recipe. For example, using sandalwood as a base for an incense that has aromatics like frankincense or patchouli, will often provide amazing results. Sometimes an incense maker will pick a base and then look for aromatics that compliment it. Other times, the incense maker will choose a set of aromatics and then look for the best base to compliment, or at least not interfere with, them.

In addition to dried and powdered aromatics, many incense makers also include liquid scents such as essential oils, decoctions, hydrosols, and other extracts.

Liquid

Whether you choose a wood or gum binder, you must add water to your blend in order to “activate” the binder. While you do need to use a water-based liquid, it doesn’t need to be plain water. Any liquid that is mostly water will work to activate your binder. That means that water, tea, coffee, milk, fruit juices, and other liquids can be used to activate your binder. Herbal teas and wine are commonly used liquids. Keep in mind, however, that essential oils do not contain water. You can supplement the amount of water you use with some oils, but you cannot use oils in place of water.

Using Makko

Although tabu no ki is sometimes called makko, the truth is that makko is a blend that often includes tabu no ki, but it is much more than that single ingredient. Makko is actually a special base and binder blend. It has several uses, but its most popular use is to simplify incense making. I offer a traditional Japanese makko that includes tabu no ki and clove. I suspect it also contains sandalwood, but of course, the recipe is a secret. One makko that I make, Magic Makko, is actually a combination of 9 different ingredients and includes 2 wood binders, 1 gum binder, along with ingredients to improve the burn and to enhance the scent of the ingredients that you use. If you purchase makko from someone, make sure that it is actually makko and not plain tabu no ki. Don’t get me wrong, I make lots of incense with pure tabu no ki, but when you ask for “makko”, make sure that’s what you get. Nothing makes it easier to start making incense than a good batch of makko!

With the introduction of Super Makko, incense makers have another powerful tool for make awesome incense. Super Makko is based around the most powerful, flexible, joss powder I’ve ever found. When I first started using this joss powder, it was so strong that it was almost impossible to use. As I got to know it better, I began to blend it with other ingredients to create a whole new makko blend that offers strength and elasticity that I’ve never encountered with any other makko.